A delectable Southern meal with French accents.
I think it’s pretty safe to say that anything Joanna Gaines does, she does well. Whether it’s renovating hundreds of homes in the Waco, Texas, area or developing a ready-to-eat line of Magnolia Table products for Target, it’s not going to disappoint.
And speaking of renovating, Chip and Joanna filmed two spin-offs of Fixer Upper in recent years—Fixer Upper: The Castle and Fixer Upper: The Hotel—to document special renovation projects of theirs. I recently visited Waco, where I had a chance to stay at the hotel in question, Hotel 1928.
Hotel 1928 is, in one word, breathtaking. It feels like stepping back in time when you walk through the front door. Tucked inside an unassuming brick building just a few blocks from the Magnolia campus’s landmark Silos, this boutique hotel is a gem. And what was even more of a delight was the Brasserie, the restaurant just off the hotel lobby. I ate my final meal of the trip here, and it left such an impression that I can’t wait to go back and dine there again.
Here’s Everything I Ate at the Brasserie at Hotel 1928
Firstly, I have to talk about the vibes inside this restaurant. If walking through the front door of Hotel 1928 sends you back to the 1920s, then turning left and walking into the Brasserie transports you to Paris: hardwood floor with black and white penny tile accents, dark green leather booths curved into C shapes, and floor-to-ceiling windows that let in a ton of natural light. Everything was curated, but not in a fussy way. I felt totally at ease there.
Amuse bouche
If a meal starts with an oyster, then you know I’m already having a good time. This one was a broiled Gulf oyster topped with dashi bacon jam and French onion foam. It was served in an oyster shell, which made me feel like a very fancy mermaid. The combination of bacon, onion and brine was immediately reminiscent of so many flavors of France—which was fitting, as we were in a Brasserie! Consider my bouche (mouth) très amused.
Appetizers
Then I moved on to three different appetizers. One was Jo’s Korean-style wings, served with kimchi pickles and ranch dressing. I loved the flavor of the wing sauce, and the heat built up nicely as I ate them but was never overpowering. The kimchi pickles had a great tang and really balanced the spice of the wings and the creamy dressing. I kept forgetting that I had more food coming; this would have been an excellent entree!
Next, I dug into the poached pear and burrata salad, which was garnished with vanilla bean, star anise and grilled radicchio. Now, in the interest of fairness, I used to be a burrata hater. I likened the soft, curd-and-cream center to a runny egg yolk, which I found unappealing. But then I got over it one summer when a friend served me an excellent burrata with grilled peaches. This is a reminder to stay open minded when it comes to food! This burrata dish was excellent, and I loved how the vanilla and star anise complemented the sweetness of the pear. The entire dish was light and fresh, and a really welcome note to have at the beginning of the meal.
Finally, no meal in Texas is complete without buttermilk biscuits. I slathered one half with honey butter, the other in jam, and ate them. They were crumbly perfection, and made me excited that now I can just buy Jo’s buttermilk biscuits at Target and stash them in the freezer. I can’t think of a better comfort food.
Entree
Somehow, I still had room for more food after four starters. This is always the sign of a good meal—never wanting it to end! It was pretty hard to decide what I wanted as my main, since everything on the menu sounded good. The Dr Pepper-brined pork chop immediately caught my eye (did you know Dr Pepper was invented in Waco? I learned that on this trip!), and so did the chicken fried steak. But ultimately, I leaned as far into the Southern angle as I could and ordered shrimp and grits.
This shrimp and grits might be one of the best dishes I’ve eaten in a restaurant, period. The grits were unbelievably creamy. The shrimp was perfectly seasoned, and the black pepper bacon pieces added such a nice level of umami to the entire dish. Every bite was a texture and flavor bomb, and I couldn’t stop eating. Even writing about it now is making my mouth water. And I knew I wasn’t the only one enjoying myself—once the entrees arrived, my table was completely silent for several minutes. If there’s a better marker of a good meal, I don’t know what it is.
Sides
If I see interesting side dishes on a menu, I have to order them. I can’t help it. There were two that caught my eye at the Brasserie: crispy sweet potatoes with Texas wildflower honey and jalapenos, and cast-iron mac and cheese. The mac and cheese was made with a three-cheese blend, Mornay sauce and crispy bread crumbs. There was an option to add crab to the mac, but since we were already eating a veritable feast, I declined. The sweet potatoes were super crispy and super spicy, and the mac and cheese was super creamy. The sides balanced each other well and were a perfect complement to the rest of the menu.
Dessert
Obviously, I got dessert. My weakness for bread pudding is severely taken advantage of every time I visit the South, and I wouldn’t have it any other way. This one came in its very own cast-iron skillet and could have easily served four people. It was topped with a whiskey caramel sauce and gelato. The whole dessert was so light, I couldn’t believe it; sometimes bread pudding is dense, and that was not the case here. The gelato really was a perfect accompaniment.
Final Thoughts
I had an incredible meal at the Brasserie at Hotel 1928. It can definitely be a little stressful to find quality meals when you’re traveling. Take it from my years of experience: The restaurant connected to the hotel is not always a safe bet for a good meal. But in this case, I would argue that a visit to the Brasserie is a necessity if you’re in Waco, whether or not you’re staying at the hotel.
My meal felt like a perfect balance of Southern charm and French elegance, while remaining accessible, unpretentious and comforting. It’s like they channeled the entire ethos of what Chip and Joanna have built in Waco into a dining experience. I’m just one lucky diner who was able to experience it first-hand.
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